2 What
to look for in a bike
These are just my thoughts of a minimum list:
- Frame: Classic shape with
horizontal top tube. Look for a nice colour as you will have to live with
it or repaint. Probably Steel but Aluminum is fine.
- Fork: non-suspended type with
moderate rake to allow for stable no-hands riding
- Stem: Aluminum and aesthetically
pleasing
- Cranks: Cotterless with removable
chainrings. Should be aesthetic pleasing.
- Pedals: Aluminum with screw
on dust caps are to be preferred but rare today due to the less costly
sealed non-serviceable plastic units.
- Tires: Low rolling resistance
Slicks. The sidewalls of the tire should be very thin to roll well
- Wheels: Aluminum for its rust
resistance and lighter weight over steel
- Gear Shifters: Metal thumb
or levers are best. Avoid grip shifters like the plague.
- Gears: Parallellogram cage
is now pretty standard. The more metal the better.
- Brakes: V-brakes or Cantilver
- Brake Levers: Should look
and feel nice to operate
There you have it. The first group compose the main body of the bike. The
second group comprise the power train of the bike. The very last group make
the elements that control the bike and come into contact with your hands.
2 $100 Bike
I'm going to go over the above list within the context of what you can
get for $100 and what you are paying for when you pay more.
Today it is amazing that you can get a pretty amazing dual suspension bike
for about 1/3 of what it would have cost about 7 years ago. But susupension,
in my opinion, is rarely needed or used by most people. For $100,
you are getting a
serviceable bicycle
often determine by volume purchase of various components sourced from
various manufacturers.
The thing with inexpensive bikes is that they can easily be "better" with
some simple upgrades. When the cost becomes more that 50% of the cost of the bike (i.e. $50), I start thinking about maybe buying the next model up...if it has a regular fork.
Frame: Simpler is better. One of
my favourie city bikes is an early mountain bike made by Raleigh in the 80s.
The bike weighs about 35 Ilbs and can be ridden easily with no
hands. This is due to a combination
of
- the proper weight distribution betweent he front and back wheelsseat
position over the bottom bracket positions (center of spinning cranks)
- top tube length.
- fork angle and rake
The frame is the heart and soul of a bicyle and contributes to the bulk of
the "pleasure" of riding a bicylce. The best frames combine the feel of efficiency
(best learnt by trying a few bikes over time) and the ability to dampen road
vibration. Even though the bike is inexpensive, I've seen a number of the bikes around the city with the logos removed and the bike looks twice as expensive. Take a look here
The classic double triangle is the strongest and lightest geometry.
Avoid the "girls bike" for this reason.
Fork: Go for no suspension for lightest
weight. The wider wheels will provide most of the cushioning and you do not need much on asphalt.
The classic forks from the Seventies were tapered as they neared the front wheel hub and gives
an aesthetic that is just plain beautiful. Maybe Canadian tire has exhausted their supply of
"no tapered" forks and who knows....?
Levers:Similar to the selection
of a mouse and keyboard on a PC, the ergonomics of the items that are in
constant contact with your hands should merit more consideration that most
people typically give. These are the levers associated with the brakes
and the gearing. Metal would be preferred for durability.
Brakes: For $99, their are things that are economized on for the sake of costs. The
brakes should be replaced on this bike with better/lighter versions made out of alumunum.
These can often be found hanging up in the miscellaneous parts section right beside the
helmets at your local Canadian Tire for about $15.
